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A puppy needs regular and adequate meals, regular exercise in a safe place, to be clean

and comfortable, veterinary care whenever needed, training and socialisation.

Before starting, consider these points.

• Time – puppies need lots of time, and this continues throughout the dog’s life – exercise,

trips to the vet, grooming, training and play.

• Cost – not just to acquire your puppy, but for vet’s bills, kennelling costs, food costs and so

on throughout the dog’s life.

• What sort of dog would suit my lifestyle? This is the most important (and most difficult)

question to answer.

Before you get a puppy, ask yourself: “Do I want a crossbreed or pedigree?” If you would like

a particular breed, then research carefully – there are many breeds and many breeders.

There are also many books and magazines devoted to providing information to prospective

owners, so do your homework. Never buy a puppy from a pet shop, and avoid breeders

who offer many different breeds – reputable breeders specialise. Pedigree puppies can be

expensive – usually several hundred pounds for most breeds.

See the puppy with the mother and litter-mates, and preferably in a home environment.

A puppy’s early experiences are important, so look for a puppy brought up around people

rather than in a kennel.

Crossbred puppies present different challenges to pedigrees. Obviously the pup’s parentage

is important, so do try to see the mother. If adopting from a charity such as The Blue Cross,

this might not be possible, so take advice from staff who work with the puppy.

Remember, charities such as The Blue Cross frequently have puppies looking for good

homes, but always have adult dogs in need of loving homes too. An adult dog may suit your

Many pedigrees suffer from inherited conditions such as hip dysplasia, so make sure

the parents have been tested – a reputable breeder will volunteer this information,

less scrupulous ones might not.

When you have your puppy, make an appointment for a check-up with the vet as soon

as possible. If there are health problems, immediately get in touch with the breeder or

charity you got the puppy from.

Puppies – as with most children – should be interested and playful. Although they sleep

for long periods, do watch out for those that are sleepy all the time, or those that are

overly nervous.

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Puppies should leave their mothers when around eight weeks old. Feed the diet they are

used to at first, and introduce any new food gradually, but always use a food suitable

for the puppy’s breed and size. Several small meals are better than fewer large ones.

Always make sure fresh water is available. Never give milk. Always follow the

manufacturer’s instructions when feeding, and do not allow your puppy to become fat –

obesity is a problem for dogs just as much as for humans.

Rescue centres and reputable breeders will probably have commenced a course

of vaccinations and can give you a vet’s certificate – they will probably also have started

a worming programme too. Vaccinations and worming are essential, so consult your vet

for advice.

A day or two before collection, take a blanket to place in the puppy’s bed, then, when

you take the pup home, transfer the blanket to the puppy’s new bed – your puppy will

feel at home. Also, make sure you have food and water bowls, grooming equipment and

plenty of toys – play is an essential part of growing up.

Chewing is a natural pastime for puppies, so do not discourage your pet, just ensure you

let the puppy chew things you have chosen, rather than your shoes. Rawhide chews,

nylon bones and large hard biscuits are ideal. If the puppy does chew something

elsewhere and then give something else to chew. Your puppy might need to be taught to

chew so, to do this, play with the chew in an enticing way until the puppy begins to chew.

The best place for your puppy’s bed is a draught-free corner of the kitchen. Kitchens tend

inappropriate, distract your pet by arranging for something interesting to happen

to be warm and to have washable floors. Remember the bed is your puppy’s refuge,

so keep young children away from it, and never allow a tired puppy to be dragged out of

bed to play – your pet is not a toy!

On the first few nights in your home, expect your puppy to whimper. Before you go to bed,

play with your puppy to induce sleep. After the first few nights, the pup should settle quite

happily. Also take your pet out to the garden to spend a penny (with plenty of praise when

it happens). Put paper on the floor for your puppy to use as a toilet.

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If you do have problems with your puppy making noise, there is an alternative approach.

For the first few nights, keep your puppy in your bedroom, in a high-sided box so there is

no chance to get out. Any noise can be quietened by a few kind words or a reassuring pat.

After a few nights the puppy will be used to being away from litter-mates and can be

moved into the kitchen. This method may also help the housetraining process as the

puppy can be taken out if the need arises in the night.

In the morning take your puppy straight out to go to the toilet and praise when the pup

“performs”. Do not be angry if your pup has toileted overnight, but do praise when

there is no mess. Always give lots of praise when your puppy goes in the right place –

and make sure you take your pup back there whenever the animal looks likely to go.

Socialisation is vital if your puppy is to grow up as a well-adjusted member of your family,

so try to expose your puppy to as many new experiences as possible – travel by car and

by bus, for example. Vacuum cleaners, traffic, radio and television are all noises the puppy

will have to get to know. It is possible to overwhelm the puppy, however, so do be careful.

Your puppy needs to mix with other animals as soon as possible. Although it is unsafe to

mix with strange dogs until fully vaccinated, your puppy can meet dogs you know are

healthy. Friends’ and relations’ dogs are useful. Do not allow them to play rough games,

and allow the older dog to be left in peace if your puppy does not wish to play. Do not leave

your puppy unattended with a strange dog or child. There are many puppy classes (animal

charities, dog wardens and vets all have details) so do join one. Classes are fun for all the

family, and an excellent way of learning how to do it right.

Your pup also needs to meet children, but make sure the children understand the ground

rules first – your puppy is not a toy. The children must learn not to tease or bully the pup,

and the animal must learn not to jump up or nip during play.

A collar and tag are essential – we recommend microchipping, or tattooing,  but it is still a legal

requirement for your dog to have a collar and tag as well. Remember to check the fit of

the collar regularly – puppies grow quickly and the collar can become too tight!

Regular grooming is essential to keep your dog in good condition, and is also a good way

of showing affection. Teeth brushing is also important, as dental disease is common in

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dogs. Do not use toothpaste for humans on your dog – vets have canine products

available. Grooming and teeth brushing, if started young enough, will be fun for both you

and your puppy.

Male dogs can be neutered between seven and ten months of age, and bitches after their

first season; neutering prevents unwanted litters and avoids other health problems. Your vet

will give you advice.

Veterinary treatment can be expensive, so we recommend that you take out insurance.

There are many schemes available, so speak to your vet and get as much background

information as you can. Some breeders and animal charities give free insurance for a

limited period when you take on your puppy.

With correct planning and care, your puppy will give you and your family many years of

pleasure and enjoyment, and will help you teach your children to be responsible.